124 LESINA, CURZOLA, LISSA tion of the islands and littoral as distinguished from the barbarism of the hinterland. The islands can now be reached by the small coasting line of steamers. Formerly the Austrian Lloyd service used to touch at the various ports; now they steam from Spalato to Gravosa without a stop. As we leave Spalato and cross the Sound of Brazza, the site of Diocletian’s Palace reveals itself in all its interest and splendour; the great line of the cryptoporticus is best seen from the water. The beautiful mediaeval campanile—beautiful in itself but still incongruous with its surroundings— shoots up above the town, and behind it in the far distance sits Klissa on the shoulder of Kozjac, and Mossor, usually gloomy under storm-clouds, closes the east. The steamer threads the narrow channel between Solta and Brazza, with Milna, one of Brazza’s most flourishing little seaports, famous for its wine-shipping trade ; the “ Buon Padre, Milna”, was once a well-known craft off the Dogana point at Venice, and sold its wine retail to all who came to its “jug and bottle” companion. Then the long, low line of Lesina, in Greek “ the awl”, comes in sight. But though Lesina was undoubtedly colonized by Greeks from Paros, and its Croat name Hvar is simply Greek lts