KLISSA
101
and are now inside the original town. Keeping down towards the river Jader, but before crossing the Spalato-Traii road, we find the remains of the theatre ; the amphitheatre is at the extreme northwestern angle of the ancient walls, and the baths, or thermae, at the corresponding south-west angle. Passing through this western wall we find ourselves close to the station of Salona, on the Spalato-Knin line, whence we can take the train back to Spalato. But, if we have time, it is well worth climbing the easy carriage road ascent to the dominating fortress and village of Klissa. The little village and church with its campanile lies below the massive fortifications, much as Knin nestles under its fortress. Both were built for a like purpose, to act as the key (K\elaa, Sicl to awyicXeietv rou? hepxofievov<; eneWev) to a pass which leads from the interior down to the coast, and both were held alternately by Slavs, Hungarians, Croats, Turks and Venetians. The site and the view are alike remarkable. We are at the butt-end of the Kozjac wall, while we look over the village and the valley °f the Jader to the desolate masses of the Mossor range; an infinite waste of grey limestone, dead and monotonous by day, but at sunrise and sunset taking translucent, ethereal hues, or may be frown-
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